Description
About Grand Seiko SBGJ273
Grand Seiko “Yuka Momiji” Autumn Edition Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Elegance Collection
A mechanical GMT showcasing a spectacular dial that depicts the color of autumn leaves reflected in traditional lacquered flooring
In Japan, the charms of changing seasons are woven into the fabric of everyday life. Taking up this concept, the latest Grand Seiko mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 GMT expresses the beauty of autumn as it might be experienced in a traditional Japanese building with floors of lacquered wood. There, light pours in through windows, and the ebullient reds of autumn leaves outside reflect off the floorboards in a mesmerizing display of nature’s beauty.
Each dial has a striated surface depicting a spectrum of reds, calling to mind how some lighter or darker floorboards might reflect varied shades of changing leaves. The GMT hand, rendered in a rich golden hue, adds another fall color to the dial.
Grand Seiko SBGJ273 Features
In Japan, the charm of the passing seasons is ingrained in everyday life. Taking up the “Nature of Time” concept so dear to the brand, this Hi-Beat 36000 GMT mechanical timepiece is inspired by the “Yuka Momiji”, which expresses the beauty of autumn as it can be felt in a traditional Japanese house with a lacquered wooden floor. Light streams in through the windows, and the bright red of the autumn leaves outside is reflected on the floorboards. The planks then light up with vivid colors, while retaining the definition of their striated form.
This watch follows on from the limited edition SBGH269 presented in 2019, which used the same dial pattern and color palette, albeit with a different case and no GMT function! This is a highly sought-after model among collectors of the Japanese brand, so it’s great news to find this exceptional dial in a watch from the current collection.
An exceptional model
This SBGJ273 features a steel case influenced by the first Grand Seiko design from 1960. The watch measures 39.5 mm in diameter by 13.9 mm in thickness, with a “vintage” aesthetic enhanced by a “box-shaped” sapphire crystal. The design is classic, thanks to the mirrored surfaces of the bezel and case, and slightly curved lugs with a distortion-free mirror finish, achieved through Zaratsu polishing, a signature of the Japanese Maison. The design of this “Elegance” model has become a true classic of Grand Seiko mechanical watchmaking.
Its dial features an exceptional chromatic palette of reds, reflecting the subtle variations between the maple leaves and the lacquered wood planks that reflect the light. The depth and complexity of this dial is complemented by the GMT hand, which takes on a bright gold color, adding that little extra and that autumnal feel. Finally, the faceted “diamond-cut” hands and hour markers pleasantly reflect the light, while guaranteeing optimal time legibility, even in low-light conditions.
Mechanical side
Grand Seiko has chosen to equip this watch with a GMT Hi-Beat 36,000 alternations 9S86 manufacture caliber. This choice is not insignificant, as such a frequency allows extreme precision and demonstrates all the know-how and mastery of the Japanese brand in the design of High Frequency movements. Indeed, few watchmakers propose to take up this challenge, as a faster rotation speed can affect the power reserve and even the longevity of the movement itself. Backed by 50 years of experience, and the fruit of many years of development and research, this movement produced at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio offers a precision of -3 to +5 seconds per day, as well as a 55-hour power reserve. Superior COSC chronometry standards.
- 37 jewels
- 24-hour hand (dual time display function)
- Calendar-linked time difference adjustment function
- Case back with 6 screws
- Case back with lion emblem
- Date display
- See-through case back
Grand Seiko SBGJ273 History
Prior to 1960, to challenge the status of Swiss watches and change the perception of Japanese watches, Daini Seikosha and Suwa began the discussion of a product line that can match the quality of Swiss watches under the suggestion of the parent company. At the time, Suwa Seikosha Co. was in charge of manufacturing men’s watches, so it was decided that Suwa would be producing the first Grand Seiko (GS).
The first Grand Seiko was released in 1960, it was based on Seiko’s previous high-end watch, CROWN. This Grand Seiko has a 25-jewel, manual-winding, 3180 caliber, and only 36,000 units were produced. This was also the first chronometer-grade watch manufactured in Japan, and it was based on Seiko’s own chronometer standard.
Design style
The design language of the Grand Seiko was set in 1967, with the creation of Grand Seiko 44GS. The 44GS set the ground for all future Grand Seiko with nine elements. These elements help improve the legibility of the watch under different situations, and create a sharp, crisp visual impression:
- Double width index at 12 o’clock
- Multi-faceted rectangular markers
- Highly polished bezel
- Highly polished planes and two-dimensional surface
- Half recessed crown
- Flat dial
- Multi-faceted hour and minute hands
- Curved side line
- Reverse slanted bezel wall and case side
- Dress style with simple but beautiful design
- Zaratsu polishing
source : wikipedia
